An electrical rough-in checklist covers everything that must be finished inside the walls, ceilings and trenches before an inspector looks at it: boxes set and secured, cable run, strapped and protected, grounding spliced, and nothing covered yet. Get those items right and the inspection is a short visual walk-through. Miss them and you wait for a re-inspection while the drywall crew sits idle.
This guide is written for homeowners, builders and property managers who have a rough-in coming up in the Myrtle Beach area or anywhere else in the U.S. It follows the way inspectors actually work, using published checklists from building departments, and it flags where your local office may differ.
TL;DR
- The rough-in inspection happens after branch circuit wiring and boxes are in, and before insulation, drywall or backfill hides them. Concealing work early can force you to open it back up.
- Have every cable stapled, supported and protected, every box rigidly secured, and every grounding conductor spliced with a pigtail. Leave devices (outlets, switches, fixtures) uninstalled.
- Check free conductor length, nail plates near stud edges, panel working clearance, and the required circuits before you call.
- Local rules and code editions vary. Confirm yours with the building department that issues your permit.
- Not sure the work is ready? Have a licensed electrician walk it before the inspector does.
Table of Contents
- What a rough-in inspection actually is
- Before you call: permits and code edition
- The electrical rough-in checklist
- Order of operations on the day
- Common reasons a rough-in fails
- Our perspective: photographs, planning and a second set of eyes
- New construction, remodels and commercial spaces
- Planning your rough-in with Guardian
- FAQ
- Sources
What a rough-in inspection actually is
The rough-in inspection is a mid-project check. According to the Electrical Safety Authority (an Ontario regulator, but the sequence is the same in U.S. jurisdictions), it takes place when all branch circuit wiring and outlet boxes are installed, before insulation, vapor barrier or drywall conceal them.
The inspection is visual. The inspector is not testing whether a lamp turns on. They are confirming that the wiring paths, box connections and protection are correct while everything can still be seen, because after the walls close nobody will see them again for decades.
The Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry states that all wiring, including underground cable and conduit, must be inspected before it is concealed by insulation, sheetrock, backfill or other materials. If it is covered first, you may be required to expose it again at your own cost. That is the single most expensive way to fail.
Rough-in versus final
The two inspections check different things.
| Rough-in | Final | |
|---|---|---|
| When | Wiring and boxes installed, walls open | After drywall, paint, devices and fixtures |
| What is visible | Cables, boxes, splices, grounding, panel | Devices, covers, fixtures, panel labeling, GFCI/AFCI operation |
| Devices installed? | No | Yes |
| Main risk | Hidden defects sealed in the wall | Safety of the finished, energized system |
Before you call: permits and code edition
An electrical permit comes first. Many cities require both a permit and inspections for new construction, remodeling, replacement or repair of wiring, as Bloomington, Minnesota's checklist puts it. South Carolina jurisdictions work the same way: the permit is pulled by the licensed contractor or an eligible owner, and inspections are scheduled with the county or city building department.
Ask the office two questions before you start:
- Which edition of the National Electrical Code (NEC) is enforced, and are there local amendments?
- How much notice do they need to schedule a rough-in, and do they have their own checklist?
The edition matters because requirements change. South Carolina's residential code is based on the 2021 International Residential Code, effective January 1, 2023, with state amendments. Other states and cities publish checklists keyed to different NEC cycles, for example St. Paul's dwelling rough-in checklist references the 2023 NEC. Treat any checklist, including ours, as a guide and not a replacement for the code your inspector enforces.
The electrical rough-in checklist
Work through these in order. The groupings mirror how inspectors typically walk a house.
1. Boxes
- Every box is installed at the planned location and rigidly secured to the structure.
- Box type matches the cable and the use (for example, boxes rated for fixture support where a fan or heavy fixture will hang).
- Boxes are set so the finished surface will be flush with the wall or ceiling once drywall goes on. Inspectors commonly check that the box edge is not recessed behind combustible surfaces.
- Box fill is not exceeded. Count conductors, devices and clamps against the box's marked volume.
- Exterior boxes are in place where required, such as receptacles at the front and back of the home, and outdoor lighting outlets at doors.
2. Cable support and protection
This is where most punch-list items come from.
- Strapping: according to the Nassau County, Florida residential checklist, NM cable is secured within 12 inches of a metal box and 8 inches of a plastic box, then supported at regular intervals along its run.
- Nail plates: the same checklist calls for protecting NM cable with a steel nail plate whenever it sits closer than 1 1/4 inches to the stud surface.
- Bored holes: cable through framing sits centered where possible and is not pinched, stretched or stapled so tightly that the jacket is damaged.
- Bundling: avoid running more than two cables bundled together through framing members without checking the derating rules, since heat buildup reduces how much current the conductors can safely carry.
- Sheath into the box: cable jacket enters the box with a quarter inch or so of sheath visible past the clamp, with conductors undamaged.
3. Free conductor length
The Minnesota checklist for the 2026 NEC cycle notes that at least 6 inches of free conductor must be available at each box, with at least 3 inches extending outside the box opening. Short tails are one of the most common reasons electricians have to pull a cable back or add a splice later. Measure a few boxes before you call.
4. Grounding and bonding
This is the hidden requirement that trips up homeowners. Per the same Minnesota checklist, grounding conductors are spliced, with a pigtail attached to the grounding terminal at the device location, before the inspection. The St. Paul checklist makes the same point: the inspector is checking the connections and wiring paths, so devices stay out of the boxes.
Also confirm:
- Metal boxes are bonded.
- The grounding electrode system and bonding to metal water piping and gas piping are complete and accessible where the code requires them to be visible.
- Service grounding at the meter base or main panel is done to the standard your inspector expects.
If your project touches these items, our grounding and bonding services cover the work so it is ready to be seen at rough-in.
5. Panel and service equipment
- The working space in front of the panel is clear. The Nassau County and Inverness-style checklists list a minimum of 30 inches wide by 36 inches deep, with headroom, and nothing else allowed in that space.
- Panel location is acceptable: not in a bathroom, not in a clothes closet, and not blocked by planned cabinets or shelves.
- The meter base and outside disconnect are in place where your jurisdiction expects them at rough-in. North Chicago's rough-in and final checklist describes this as part of the rough-in stage in that city.
- Cables entering the panel are clamped and have enough length to reach their breakers.
If the load you are planning is outgrowing the panel, settle it now, not after drywall. Our panel upgrade and 400-amp service pages explain the options.
6. Circuits and outlet locations
The Nassau County checklist lists common circuit requirements, including 20-amp circuits for kitchen small appliances, laundry and bathrooms. Walk the plans and confirm each of these has its own circuit run:
- Kitchen small-appliance circuits and dedicated runs for dishwasher, disposal and microwave where planned.
- Laundry circuit.
- Bathroom circuit.
- Heating equipment circuit.
- Smoke and carbon monoxide alarm wiring, where required in your jurisdiction.
- Future loads: a 240-volt run for an EV charger in the garage, a generator inlet, or a subpanel. It costs far less to run the cable now than to fish it later. See EV charger installation if that is on your list.
Receptacle spacing, GFCI and AFCI protection are mostly verified at final, but the outlet locations are set at rough-in. Count wall spaces against the code spacing rules before the wall closes. The model code's chapter on power and lighting distribution explains how receptacle and lighting outlets are placed through a dwelling.
7. Low-voltage and special areas
- In basements and finished spaces, install in-wall low-voltage wiring before the rough inspection when your jurisdiction requires it. Parker, Colorado's basement finish handout lists this under wiring methods and rough inspection.
- Underground conduit and cable are inspected before the trench is backfilled.
- Attic and crawlspace wiring is protected from damage and sized correctly for how it is installed.
Order of operations on the day
- Confirm the permit is posted at the job site.
- Make sure framing, plumbing, gas and HVAC rough-ins are done, since many departments require all sub-trade rough-ins to be complete and inspected before insulation, as the Easley, SC checklist summarizes for building code review.
- Walk every room with the plans in hand, boxes first, then cable, then splices.
- Make sure the site is accessible: a ladder in the attic access, a clear path to the panel, power or light if needed.
- Request the inspection with the required notice, and have someone on site who can answer questions.
- Do not insulate, board or backfill until you have the approval.
Common reasons a rough-in fails
- Grounds not pigtailed, or splices left loose in the wall cavity.
- Cable too close to the stud face with no nail plate.
- Cable unsupported near boxes.
- Boxes loose, or set too deep for the finished surface.
- Short conductor tails.
- Panel space blocked or the panel in a prohibited location.
- Work covered before approval.
- Devices already installed, hiding the connections the inspector needs to see.
Most of these are a half-day of correction. The expensive ones are covering work early and discovering a missing circuit after the walls are closed.
Our perspective: photographs, planning and a second set of eyes
At Guardian we plan electrical work before anyone cuts a hole. We ask clients to send photos and ideas, because a picture of the kitchen layout or the garage wall tells us more than a phone description does. That is how we decide where the extra circuits, the panel capacity and the EV or generator provisions should go while the framing is still open.
We think the rough-in is the best moment in the whole project to be generous with planning. Wire is cheap compared to opening finished walls. When we build to a rough-in, we treat the inspector as a second set of eyes: our job is to make the work easy to read, with clean runs, tidy splices and grounding ready to see, so approval is a formality and not a negotiation.
We also recommend that owners who are managing their own project, or relying on a general contractor, ask someone to walk the electrical before the inspection date. If something fails, our team handles inspection corrections too. You can see what finished rough-in work looks like on our rough-in photos page.
— Logan
New construction, remodels and commercial spaces
New construction. The rough-in is the main event. Plan panel size, circuits and special loads with your electrician at framing, not after. Our new construction electrical team plans and wires the project to the inspection sequence.
Remodels. Opening a wall is the cheapest chance to fix old wiring, add circuits and relocate boxes. Permits and rough-in inspections generally apply to remodel work too. See remodel wiring, kitchen and bathroom electrical, or rewiring if the existing system is the problem.
Commercial and multi-trade properties. Commercial rough-ins add conduit, larger panels and tenant-specific loads, and several trades often work the same ceiling cavity. Sequencing matters: if the ceiling is open for a single trade, all trades should finish before it closes. For an example of how property teams run several trades under one maintenance structure, see this overview of multi-trade planned and reactive maintenance for commercial properties, written for London buildings but useful for thinking about scheduling.
Planning your rough-in with Guardian
We provide residential and commercial electrical services in Myrtle Beach, including new construction and remodel wiring, panels, lighting and ceiling fans, EV chargers and generator connections. Estimates are free, and the conversation starts with your plans and photos. Browse our electrical services, or see our service areas for Conway and Longs.
FAQ
What does a rough-in electrical inspection consist of?
It is a visual check of the wiring and boxes while they are still exposed. The inspector looks at box installation, cable support and protection, grounding and bonding, conductor length, the panel and the required circuits. They do not test devices, because none are installed yet.
What is the first step when roughing in electrical?
Get the permit and confirm the code edition, then plan circuits and outlet locations against the drawings. Next come the boxes, followed by drilling framing and pulling cable. Splicing grounds, strapping the cable and installing nail plates come before you call for inspection.
Should outlets and switches be installed before the rough-in inspection?
No. Devices and fixtures wait until after the rough-in is approved and the walls are finished. Installed devices would hide the connections the inspector is there to see.
What happens if I cover the wiring before the inspection?
You may have to remove insulation, drywall or backfill so the work can be inspected, according to the Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry. That means added labor, material and schedule delay, so wait for the approval.
Who should do the rough-in on my project?
In most places, a licensed electrical contractor, though some jurisdictions allow owner-builders under conditions. Check with your local building department. If you want the work planned around photos and done to inspection standards, ask us for a free estimate.
Sources
- ESA: What is a rough-in inspection and when does it take place?
- Minnesota DLI: Electrical inspection checklist for one-family dwellings
- City of St. Paul: Residential dwelling checklist, 2023 NEC
- Nassau County, FL: Residential rough and final electrical inspection checklist
- City of Bloomington, MN: Electrical inspection checklist for single family dwellings
- South Carolina Residential Code 2021 (UpCodes)
- North Chicago: Residential electrical checklist
- Parker, CO: Basement finish electrical requirements
- Easley, SC: Residential rough-in inspection checklist
- GSA Residential Code 2024, Chapter 39 (UpCodes)